Frequently Asked Questions

Street Tuned Series: P Series (base version) for 16–19 inch wheels, S Series (high-performance version) for 19–22 inch wheels. Off-Road Series: T Series is designed for most 17–18 inch heavy-duty vehicles. Racing Series: GT Series is designed for aggressive daily driving, mountain driving, and professional racing, and fits 17–19 inch wheels.

TEI rotors use a slotted design that cuts through to the disc edge, letting brake dust vent instead of packing into the slots and scoring the rotor face. This is a fixed engineering feature of every TEI disc. For a performance upgrade, Carbon-Ceramic rotors are available on select kits — see the product page for options.

Positioning: P-series is our entry-level street lineup; S-series is the higher-performance version.

Spec differences: P-series calipers use a standard anti-loosen bell (except the P60NS+ 378/400 configuration); S-series comes standard with a fully floating disc design. P-series generally fits 15–19 inch wheels, while S-series is built for 19 inch and larger wheels.

Our street calipers have a similar total piston area regardless of piston count. A 4-piston caliper (P40) feels sharper and more aggressive, while a 6-piston caliper (P60) is more linear and comfortable, with larger brake pads and a stronger mid-to-late braking feel.

P60ES: Street version focused on a linear, comfortable pedal feel. Entry-level 6-piston, great value.

P60NS: Street performance version with a more direct pedal feel. Matches larger brake pads and pistons with cooling holes. Suited to high-horsepower cars or heavy SUVs.

P60EV: Same positioning as P60ES (street 6-piston), but developed specifically for OEM wheel fitment — no spacers needed to install a 6-piston caliper.

Both are street 4-piston calipers with the same piston area. P40NS fits 16–17 inch wheels and is compatible with 300–330mm discs. P40NS+ is designed for 18 inch wheels, with a larger caliper body and bigger brake pads, and is compatible with 355mm discs — filling an 18 inch wheel much better.

P60NS: Two-piece forged caliper secured by high-strength bolts. Piston area 52.41 cm². Street performance positioning, suited to sporty sedans and large SUVs. Fits 18 inch and larger wheels.

S60-PLUS: Monoblock (one-piece) caliper — higher manufacturing requirements, but stronger overall performance. Piston area 54.95 cm². Sport high-performance positioning. S-series kits come standard with fully floating radial bells for better stability. Suited to heavy, quick-accelerating EVs, large SUVs, MPVs, and drivers who want the most from their brakes. Fits 19–22 inch wheels.

Both are TEI 6-piston street calipers. Both fit 18 inch and larger wheels, and neither needs routine disassembly maintenance.

P60EV — entry-level, practical

• Bolt-on OEM fitment — no wheel changes or spacers needed, lowest upgrade cost
• Linear, comfortable pedal feel — even pressure build-up, no nose-diving, comfortable for everyday driving
• Well suited to city commuting and family use

P60NS+ — street performance

• Larger, longer caliper with a bigger disc (up to 400mm) for a faster, more instant response
• 378mm+ discs come with fully floating bells and caliper pistons paired with heat-shield pads — less fade during aggressive driving or long descents
• Best for drivers who care most about pedal feel and performance

We offer three disc surface patterns:

• Slotted — the most stable and durable option
• Drilled — lighter, with better heat dissipation
• Slotted + drilled — combines both advantages: a higher friction coefficient and good heat dissipation

For everyday street use, the performance difference between patterns is minimal, so it largely comes down to preference. For track or mountain driving, a slotted disc is recommended; for spirited street use, slotted+drilled is a good middle ground.

No — all of our aftermarket discs use a patterned surface (slotted, drilled, or slotted+drilled). Compared with OEM plain discs, patterned discs have a higher friction coefficient and evacuate water better in the rain, which helps prevent performance loss from water film. Many high-performance OEM vehicles use patterned discs for the same reason.

Our S-series (S60-PLUS, S60-EXPLORE, S-X10) and our SR8, SR10, and GTS6 kits all come standard with fully floating discs.

Yes. Whether your car is front-, rear-, or all-wheel drive, the front brakes do the majority of the work — typically 70–80% of total braking force. The rear brakes play a supporting role.

Since the front brakes handle roughly 70% of braking force, upgrading the front only is a cost-effective option on a limited budget. For SUVs and MPVs in particular, upgrading front and rear together can give a further improvement in overall braking performance if your budget allows. If budget is tight, a front-only kit is a perfectly reasonable choice.

Check our fitment guide to search by year, make, and model. Some configurations (electronic parking brake, air suspension, or certain wheel sizes) need a quick manual check — contact us and we'll confirm before you order.

Offset, also called ET, is the distance between the wheel centerline and its mounting pad. A higher positive offset places the wheel farther inward toward the suspension; a lower or negative offset moves it outward. The usable range is vehicle-specific, so an offset change must be checked for clearance at the caliper, suspension, hub, and fender.

PCD means Pitch Circle Diameter. It is the diameter of the circle passing through the centers of the wheel's mounting holes or studs, and is normally written with the hole count, such as 5x114.3. The wheel PCD must match the vehicle hub; it is separate from wheel diameter, width, center bore, and offset.

Brake fitment depends on more than wheel diameter. Check wheel diameter and width, PCD, center bore, offset or ET, spoke clearance, and the available space around the caliper and rotor. A wheel that is large enough by diameter may still fail because of its spoke profile or offset, so confirm the vehicle and wheel combination before ordering.

EPB only acts on the rear wheels. If you're upgrading the front brakes only, EPB function is unaffected. If you're upgrading both front and rear on an EPB vehicle, the rear kit must be an electro-mechanical caliper (or dual-caliper setup) with a motor to retain OEM EPB — this is a different configuration with a higher cost than a standard rear kit, so let us know your vehicle has EPB when you order. A small number of models with worm-gear parking motors (including some VW, MG, and Volvo models) can report an "insufficient parking force" fault after a rear upgrade — contact us to confirm compatibility before ordering if your vehicle is one of these.

A spacer sits between the wheel bell and the wheel itself, pushing the wheel outward to clear the brake kit — the same basic principle as fitting different wheels, just achieved with a separate part instead of a one-piece wheel change. TEI spacers are forged from aerospace-grade aluminum. Spacers are safe as long as you use a quality product; many customers add spacers even without a brake upgrade, for a flush fit and better cornering stability.

Our spacers come with their own bolts. If you're using thin shims instead, extended lug studs are supplied as well.

Adding spacers actually makes the car more stable through corners, and the effect on steering and suspension is minimal — typical spacer thickness for a passenger car is only 15–20mm per side.

As a general guide:

• BMW, Mercedes, and Audi models generally clear our kits without spacers — with some exceptions: BMW X1, X2, 1 Series, and 2 Series; Audi A1, A3, Q1, Q2, and Q3; and Mercedes A- and B-Class typically do need spacers. The BMW 2 Series (F44) won't clear even our 18 inch P60EV without one.
• Japanese brands (Honda, Toyota, Mazda, Nissan, Subaru) generally need spacers.
• Korean brands (Hyundai, Kia) generally need spacers too — including some EV models, where the OEM wheel bell is shallow.

This is a general guide only — contact us with your specific model to confirm.

On electro-mechanical rear kits, the parking-brake motor must clear the body, control arm, and strut. To make room, the rear wheel bell is typically shallower, which pushes the caliper closer to the wheel. That's why many cars that clear the front P60EV without a spacer still need one for the rear brake upgrade.

Yes, with no master cylinder or booster change needed. Our street caliper piston areas are designed to work within the OEM master cylinder's range, and the ECU's brake-force distribution doesn't need to be reprogrammed — manufacturers already build in enough tolerance for this. Changing calipers doesn't fundamentally change the rest of the brake system.

No. ABS and ESP are calibrated by the vehicle manufacturer and run through the car's ECU. The caliper itself is a purely physical, hydraulic component (per Pascal's principle, the master cylinder pressure the ECU works with doesn't change), so swapping calipers doesn't require re-matching or recalibrating these systems.

No. A correctly balanced brake kit installation does not disturb wheel alignment or balance, and no ECU changes are needed.

If you're only upgrading the front brakes, there are no electronic components involved — it's a direct bolt-on. If you're upgrading front and rear, following the correct installation and brake-bleeding procedure will also avoid error codes.

No. OEM caliper height, friction-surface width, and compatible disc thickness don't match aftermarket caliper specs, so the caliper needs to be installed as part of a matched kit.

No, front and rear calipers use different knuckle data and simply won't fit the other axle. And no — the rear won't fishtail just because you leave it un-upgraded; fishtailing is caused by improper modifications, such as fitting an oversized caliper (for example, a large 4-piston unit) to the rear without the matching setup.

No. The brake caliper is a physical, hydraulic component on the slave-cylinder side of the system. Regenerative braking, collision avoidance, and autonomous-driving features are handled by the master cylinder and ECU, which aren't affected by a caliper upgrade.

On vehicles with an electronic parking brake, the OEM rear caliper has built-in parking-brake functionality. To retain that after an upgrade, the rear kit needs an electro-mechanical caliper (or a dual-caliper setup) with its own motor — that's additional functionality, and additional cost, compared with a standard rear kit.

No. A brake system upgrade involves the discs, pads, calipers, and related hardware — it isn't directly related to the wheel hub's center bore.

Generally, no — if your car uses a mechanical, cable-operated parking brake, the rear can't accommodate a larger disc, because the parking-brake drum would require the wheel bell to be taller than it can be. For these vehicles, we recommend our P40NS-R kit instead.

A cable parking brake uses a mechanical cable mechanism built into the caliper itself, so replacing that caliper directly would disable the parking brake entirely. For select models with this setup — including the Ford Mustang and pre-2016 Ford Explorer — we've developed a small dedicated cable-parking-brake caliper. It can be used as part of a dual-caliper P40NS-R setup that retains your OEM cable parking brake.

Our brake calipers are forged from 6082 aerospace aluminum alloy with deformation controlled within ≤0.015 mm. Featuring monoblock forging and internal brake fluid routing design, each product passes high/low-pressure and DTV testing to ensure excellent heat dissipation, durability, safety and braking performance.

6082 aerospace-grade aluminum alloy.

A complete big brake kit typically includes calipers, brake discs or rotors, brake lines, vehicle-specific brackets or adapters, and installation hardware. Confirm the exact contents on the product page before ordering, since configurations can vary by vehicle and kit.

TEI iron brake discs use high-carbon iron. Depending on the product, the friction surface may use a slotted or drilled-and-slotted design. Slots help clear dust and refresh the pad contact surface, while drilled designs can improve wet initial bite but must be selected for the intended application.

TEI braided brake hoses use a PTFE inner tube, a stainless-steel braided reinforcement layer, and a transparent PVC protective outer cover (OEM hoses are usually plain rubber). The assembly uses vehicle-specific fittings and lengths, and is designed to resist expansion, impact, abrasion, and temperature changes. Use the hose specified for the brake kit and vehicle application.

The bell (the hub connecting the disc's friction ring to the wheel) is aerospace-grade aluminum alloy. The bracket (the adapter that connects the caliper to the vehicle's steering knuckle) is 45# steel. Brackets are custom-made per vehicle and caliper — as long as they aren't damaged by impact or stripped threads, they last indefinitely.

Brake calipers are typically made by casting or forging. Cast calipers are made by melting aluminum and pouring it into a mold to solidify — a lower manufacturing cost, but lower mechanical strength than forging. Forged calipers are formed from an aluminum alloy billet under high pressure, then CNC-machined, giving a denser material structure with better heat dissipation and rigidity. There's also 4D casting, a technique with strength comparable to forging and better formability, at a lower cost than one-piece forging.

Our racing-oriented calipers use anti-kickback piston springs for a faster response — you'll find these in our GTS series and the P41-SUPER caliper.

On our fully floating bell design, the bolts are titanium alloy and hollow. On our standard anti-loosen bell design, they're 35CrMo alloy steel.

Imported rubber, heat-resistant to 220°C. For reference: normal caliper temperature during daily or spirited driving is around 80–90°C, most passenger-car brake fluid has a boiling point around 150–160°C, and typical OEM seal ratings are around 160°C.

We offer two pad options at no extra cost: street ceramic and street metallic. Ceramic pads are quieter, more comfortable, and produce less dust — a good default choice. If you drive more aggressively, metallic pads are the better fit; they can produce some metallic friction noise, which is normal.

Our brake lines are built to the international DOT standard, 7.3mm.

No — piston area affects pedal feel and travel, not braking force. Braking force comes from the brake pad's friction area and friction coefficient, not piston size. A different piston area than your stock caliper is a normal part of a properly engineered upgrade, not a reduction in stopping power.

A properly matched big brake kit increases the system's thermal capacity through larger calipers, pads, and rotors. That can help control heat and reduce fade during repeated heavy braking, while also changing pedal feel and braking response. It does not guarantee a shorter stopping distance by itself; tyres, pad compound, balance, and vehicle setup also matter.

A larger disc diameter increases the length of the braking-force lever arm, so the same piston force produces greater braking torque — like using a longer lever. It also improves heat dissipation, helping the system shed heat more effectively during continuous or high-intensity braking and reducing brake fade.

That said, larger discs aren't automatically a benefit for every vehicle. Off-road vehicles typically run 17–18 inch wheels, so OEM discs there are already sized close to the wheel's limit. And EVs are heavier, so manufacturers already spec larger piston areas and disc diameters — many EV OEM discs are already 350mm or larger. A larger-disc upgrade generally makes the most sense for standard combustion-engine sedans; check your OEM disc diameter before assuming an upgrade is needed.

Braking generates significant heat, and a fully floating disc's construction lets the bell expand and move slightly as it heats up. That keeps the disc seated correctly and prevents warping from uneven heat distribution, helping maintain consistent braking performance.

Brake fade happens when the car's forward kinetic energy, converted to heat through pad-to-disc friction, builds up faster than the system can shed it. Under continuous, hard braking the pad surface can overheat, producing gas or fluid that forms a thin barrier between pad and disc and reduces friction. The result is a noticeably less responsive pedal until the system has a chance to cool down.

Linear braking means braking force builds evenly and predictably as you press the pedal. With a floating OEM caliper, light pressure can feel like almost no braking, while slightly deeper pressure suddenly feels very strong — making it harder to modulate. That's the main reason drivers upgrade to fixed, opposed multi-piston calipers: a more linear, comfortable pedal feel with more precise control.

Ventilated pistons are typically found on supercar OEM multi-piston calipers or other high-performance calipers. The design allows for a faster brake response and better sensitivity. Since braking generates significant heat, ventilated pistons improve heat dissipation and help prevent the brake fluid from vaporizing at high temperature, which would otherwise degrade braking performance.

There are two different things people call "nose-diving." Body nose-dive is caused by soft suspension that lacks support, and is addressed with a suspension upgrade, not a brake upgrade. Brake nose-dive is different: OEM brakes mostly use floating calipers, where light pedal pressure gives almost no braking and pressing a little deeper suddenly feels very strong — that abrupt transition is what people mean by brake nose-dive. Upgrading to fixed, opposed multi-piston calipers largely resolves this, since they give a more linear pedal feel with more precise control.

Yes — even without changing tires, a brake upgrade alone can reduce stopping distance by roughly 3–5 meters in our testing. That said, the main benefit of a brake upgrade is better pedal feel and more immediate brake response; shorter stopping distance is a welcome side effect rather than the primary goal.

Compared with OEM single- or dual-piston calipers, an opposed multi-piston caliper generally offers a larger pad friction area and larger disc diameter for stronger, more responsive braking with a shorter stopping distance; better heat dissipation, for less fade and more stability during long or high-intensity braking; and a more linear pedal feel, which is easier to modulate and generally more comfortable and safer to drive with.

Not necessarily. Many cars already come with tires (Michelin, Continental, and similar) that have plenty of grip. A good way to check: if pressing the brake pedal hard doesn't bring ABS in, or brings it in very late, that suggests your braking force itself is the limiting factor and a brake upgrade is worth considering regardless of your tires.

It depends on the configuration, but here's a real example on a Cadillac CT5 sedan: the OEM single-piston caliper with pad weighs about 7.6 kg, versus 5.15 kg for our P60ES 6-piston caliper with pads. The OEM 320mm disc weighs about 9.95 kg, versus about 9.5 kg for our 355×32mm slotted disc with bell. Adding in the aluminum bracket pair (about 1 kg), the OEM total comes to about 35 kg versus about 30.3 kg for the TEI 6-piston kit — a savings of about 4.7 kg, or roughly 13.4% less unsprung mass.

Standard products in stock usually ship within 7 business days. Customized or out-of-stock items may take 7–14 business days.

We ship worldwide using trusted carriers such as DHL, FedEx and UPS for express delivery. Sea or air freight options are also available on request.

Yes. Caliper covered for 3 years. Brake hose, bracket, rotor, and pads covered for 1 year.

If damage occurs during shipping, we will provide replacement parts or free repairs to resolve the issue.

No. A small amount of lubricating grease is applied to the piston during assembly, and heat from braking can cause a small amount to seep out — this is not brake fluid and not a leak. Every caliper is pressure-tested before it ships, so an actual fluid leak from a manufacturing defect is extremely unlikely.

Our discs are assembled with the bell at the factory, and end-face runout is tested on every unit. Runout is controlled within 0.05mm.

Contact our after-sales team directly for the fastest response and the most accurate solution. If you had a local shop handle your installation, they can also help coordinate after-sales support.

This is normal, not a defect. The disc edge and center bore are intentionally left uncoated to prevent chipping during shipping and installation. Fine surface cracks are a normal by-product of the high-temperature coating process — the ceramic coating and the disc core expand and contract at different rates as they cool, producing a fine crackle pattern. This does not affect braking performance.

Carbon-ceramic discs use a carbon-based ceramic matrix rather than conventional iron. Their low mass and high temperature resistance can help reduce unsprung weight and maintain stable braking under demanding conditions. They require the correct pad compound and a proper bedding procedure; check the relevant product page for compatible components.

Carbon-ceramic discs are designed for a service life of around 300,000 km. Carbon-ceramic pads typically last 40,000–50,000 km, depending on driving style and conditions.

Yes — the braking performance of a carbon-ceramic disc mainly comes from its surface silicon carbide coating. That said, coating wear is minimal under normal use, and service life is long — up to around 300,000 km for street use.

Carbon-ceramic discs pair with two pad grades:

• X-TTA (Quiet & comfortable) — friction coefficient 0.4, heat resistance up to 500°C. Not intended for aggressive or track driving.
• G-TTA (Sport performance) — friction coefficient 0.42–0.45, heat resistance up to 700°C. May produce some noise.

Neither grade is intended for track use. For track driving, we recommend a dedicated carbon-ceramic track pad (such as PAGID RSC1) along with brake cooling.

Front carbon-ceramic discs generally use common specifications and are kept in stock, so there's no wait. Custom rear carbon-ceramic discs (for example, when keeping your OEM calipers) take approximately 60–90 days.

Your vehicle's model year and VIN, your wheel size, and photos of your calipers.

Bedding in is about the pad's resin surface layer, not the disc. New pads need a gradual heat cycle to transfer an even layer of friction material onto the disc — this is what gives you consistent, predictable braking. It is not about deliberately driving hard to "break in" the disc; aggressive driving on unbedded pads can cause uneven transfer and vibration instead.

Brake pad life depends on the vehicle, driving conditions, pad compound, and whether the car is used on the street or track. Inspect the pads regularly and check them promptly if you feel vibration, noise, or a change in pedal response. When replacement is needed, use a pad shape and compound approved for your specific TEI kit.

There is no reliable single mileage figure for every vehicle. Pad wear changes with compound, vehicle weight, traffic, temperature, and track use, so inspect the pads rather than replacing them by mileage alone. Replacement pads are available from TEI and should match the pad shape and compound specified for your kit.

This depends on your driving habits, but disc service life is generally set at 80,000–100,000 km. As a rule of thumb, wear thickness shouldn't fall more than 2mm below the disc's original thickness.

We generally recommend inspecting and replacing brake fluid every 2 years or 40,000 km. If the fluid's water content reaches 2.5%, replacement is recommended; above 3%, replacement is necessary.

Most brake noise comes down to pad material. Ceramic pads run quiet, comfortable, and low-dust. If you drive more aggressively and prefer metallic pads, occasional metallic friction noise is normal.

Vibration is usually caused by uneven installation or an incomplete bedding-in process, not a problem with the parts themselves. A careful installer will clean rust from the hub and apply anti-seize grease to prevent metal bonding or disc misalignment, both of which can cause noise and vibration. Following the correct bedding-in procedure after installation greatly reduces the chance of vibration.

Most of our street calipers have external dust boots and internal seals, which need no special maintenance beyond the usual brake fluid change every 2 years / 40,000 km. A small number of models — P40EV, P42-SUPER, and S60-EXPLORE — use internal dust boots and benefit from clearing dust from the piston area roughly every 20,000 km. If you track or drive these models hard on mountain roads, we recommend blowing out and cleaning the pistons before reinstalling.

Our rubber dust boots meet national standards and are rated for a service life of at least 10 years. Caliper maintenance requires the right tools to blow out the pistons correctly; if a caliper is forced apart without them, the piston seal can be damaged.

Avoid engine degreasers, alkaline cleaners, and other corrosive chemicals. The bell has an anodized coating that these can damage — stick to a standard, non-corrosive car wash soap.

We recommend DOT4 or DOT5.1 brake fluid for the best braking performance.